I've got a harness from a 06 GSXR 750 and I need to bypass the tip over switch. The older tip sensors were 66,000 ohms using a two wire system. The 06 has a three wire system and I can't verify the correct resistance because I don't have the original sensor. The repair manual shows the resistance between the 1st and 3rd terminal as @17,000 ohms to @ 22,000 ohms. I assumed two 9900 ohm resisters, one from the center tap (black wire) to the red wire and one from the center tap (black wire) to the blk/brn wire would do the trick but I have no spark and the fuel pump relay shuts off after three seconds. These symptoms sound like the tip sensor to me. Does anybody know the correct values? Thank you in advance for anybody's help...Jim

Well I can understand you reasons of by passing the tip over switch because it causes misfires under rough track conditions.

See: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/BoundByBoost/P1020425.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.gsxr.com/showthread.php%3Fp%3D673234&usg=__9EoS3kTSOiKfdE9VaCQsmYsutSI=&h=514&w=640&sz=60&hl=en&start=41&um=1&tbnid=pOWaI5chn303mM:&tbnh=110&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsuzuki%2Btip%2Bover%2Bswitch%2Bproble m%26start%3D40%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rl s%3Dcom.microsoft:en-US%26sa%3DN

The article states two 150 ohm resisters are used which is siliconed over after the modification is completed.

The simpler solution would be to open up the sensor and again use silicone to effectively keep the sensor from functioning.

Thanks racerman600 I appreciate your help. The sad part is I found that article last night, tried it and still no spark. I'm beginning to think the box is no good. This thing is driving me nuts. This is for a car that's going to AC. Thank you once again...Jim

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174828

One of the mistakes I believe we are making when eliminating un necessary wires happens to be the diagnostic help connection. Also, even keeping the instrument panel that gives us the readout codes.

Otherwise it is the tedious task of voltage and ohm meter readings from various points like voltage into the CDI, voltage to ignition packs, voltage to fuel injection, etc. but we know all that... Easiest way is have duplicates of everything it seems. Plug and play LAC(laughing and crying) or try again and again. Gee it was easier with carbs, huh? :eek:

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/index.php?dlid=506

You can actually download manuals once you register.:D

Yes the carb days were easier. Too many wires, too many variables. I really have not had any major problems until this one. The earlier fuel injected have been no real problem but this stupid three wire t/o sensor is giving me fits. Then we get to the performance end, yes fuel injection is better but dyno time $$ and power commander etc.$$ keeps the cost going up. I broke down and bought a chassis dyno so we could finish these jobs before they leave the shop. Just more money. I can't wait to get the dyno up and running to have some fun experimenting. Actually carbs are going to be one of the experiments (vs fuel injection) But I have to get this thing running, I think I might be chasing my tail and it needs a new box. Anyway thank you again for your help....Jim

Did you put resister in to replace ign switch?

hey - just a thought - instead of eliminating this switch, we take the switch apart, use superglue to hold the internal piece in place, and putback together - this eliminates potential electrical issues - hope it helps, thanks